In 1932, during the Great Depression, Gabrielle Chanel created ‘Bijoux de Diamants’—what would be her first and only fine — as opposed to costume — jewellery collection, centred around her favourite motifs. The latest jewelry collection from Chanel, Icons of 1932, celebrates that heritage.

With the visionary collection aiming to “cover women in constellations,” she used the celestial symbols she so loved: stars, suns, and comets, alongside feathers and bows; ‘codes’ that have since become synonymous with the house.

Chanel displayed the pieces on wax busts to depict women wearing the jewellery instead of on traditional velvet trays; an unconventional choice that caused a stir in the Parisian jewellery industry.

This year, CHANEL revisits its founder’s storied past with “Icons of 1932”: a line of fine jewellery and watches in white and yellow gold and diamonds, inspired by that historic collection, and a tribute to both the revolutionary designer herself and to empowered women everywhere.

Exemplary pieces from the Chanel Icons of 1932 collection

Among the most notable pieces is the ‘Comète’: a two-in-one white gold and diamond necklace and brooch that tributes a woman’s strength and freedom.

The ‘Soleil de Chanel’ plays double-duty as an interchangeable necklace and ring honouring the emblem of the sun: the ring comes ingeniously apart into two half suns, to be worn either separately or together.

Another of Chanel’s signatures, the ‘Ruban’, presents a dainty beige-gold ribbon wrapping sleekly into a bracelet and ring; while the ‘Plume de Chanel’ reimagines the floating feather attached to a double gold and diamond ring, with a matching semi-enclosed bracelet completing the airy profile. Rounding out the collection is the ‘Sous le Signe du Lion’: a dramatic gold-and-diamond brooch representing Mademoiselle Chanel’s own astrological sign, the powerful lion.