Behind the Legendary Stones of Van Cleef & Arpels
- Text by Kate Missine
- Photos Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels SA – 2022
The story of the Legend of Diamonds—25 Mystery Set Jewels, the newest high jewelry collection from Van Cleef & Arpels—began in 2018 with a rough diamond called the Lesotho Legend.
The exceptional stone, the fifth largest rough diamond ever mined, inspired the brand to create a collection that told the stories of incredible diamonds and gemstones.
Working with a leading diamond cutter, Van Cleef & Arpels meticulously planned the cutting and faceting of each stone.
For nearly a year, gemologists studied the combinations, using innovative technology to perfect the technique. It took approximately four years and over 30,000 hours to develop the finished collection.
At the Van Cleef & Arpels Place Vendôme Workshops, expert artisans—or “Mains d’Or” (“Hands of Gold”)—worked tirelessly on each detail, carrying on the brand’s tradition of excellence.
Lightness and movement are a cornerstone of the collection, which brings together a brilliant color contrast in rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Curved lines prevail in pieces evoking draping ribbons and dimensional bows.
Each of the gems in the collection is combined with the Mystery Set, one of the jeweler’s most complex signature techniques, patented in 1933.
The process—known only to a few lapidaries and jewelry artisans—involves the reverse of traditional settings, with the stone fitted to the metal.
One of the boldest and most dramatic pieces, the Atours Mystérieux necklace shows off an impressive 79.35-carat oval-cut diamond, the collection’s heaviest gem.