A Sneak Peak at CHANEL’s Fall-Winter Haute Couture

Following the Fall-Winter 2022/23 CHANEL Haute Couture show, the incredible savoir-faire of the collection was highlighted in exquisite detail through a series of photographs and films shot in the brand’s own Maison d’Art ateliers.

Here’s a rare sneak peek behind the scenes at the making of five of the CHANEL haute couture collection’s remarkable looks.

This voluminous organza dress is given an extra lift with a silk tulle petticoat. On top, flounces of pearl gray organza are made with a folded and layered strip of organza, crumpled with hot florist’s tongs.

Each flounce is finished with a fringed braid of dyed ostrich feathers in a sailor stripe, created by feather and flower maker Lemarié.

A vision in femininity, the powder-pink coat dress in wool and cashmere guipure lace was moulded by a tailleur atelier on a seamed tulle foundation, with the lace entirely inlaid.

A monochrome crocheted braid, taking six hours to make from 5,100 meters of thread, highlights the collar, waist, and cuffs.

The seams of the guipure lace design were rendered invisible using a special Haute Atelier technique, connecting the motif from both the front and reverse sides.

The 2-piece CHANEL haute couture ensemble of a pink tweed jacket and black organza skirt was inspired by the artistic movement of constructivism. The skirt’s colourful geometric motifs were embroidered by Atelier Lesage—an undertaking involving 390,000 elements that took over one thousand hours of work.

The jacket was made with signature Lesage tweed and embellished with micro-sequins. Pleats made by a tailleur atelier accent the hem, while a trompe l’oeil braid, woven by a dedicated braiding atelier, trims the pockets and cuffs.

Another two-piece, this CHANEL haute couture organza suit combines a straight skirt and short jacket, both embroidered with graphic silver motifs.

Lesage created the geometric design using silver sequins of different sizes and finishes that recall Gabrielle Chanel’s beloved block-coloured sequin embroidery technique.

Over 215,000 elements went into the suit, which was finished with delicate jewelled buttons on the sleeves and pockets.

A fantasy CHANEL haute couture bridal gown, this strapless white silk chiffon dress shows off the different pleats made by Atelier Lognon.

At the top are interlacing Watteau pleats—inverted pleats flared at the bottom—along with flat pleats inlaid by Lemarié.

The skirt is made up of five panels pleated by Lognon, a process requiring two machines: one for the accordion pleat and another for the flat one.

Tossed on top is a stole made from ecru fantasy crêpe georgette, embroidered with a mixture of chenille, threads, and sequins.