Max Mara Resort Collection Heats Up Lisbon
Max Mara transported its Cruise 2023 show to the Mediterranean paradise of Portugal.
The show’s relaxed ambiance was set against the backdrop of the gardens of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation in Lisbon.
The location first inspired Max Mara’s creative director Ian Griffiths when he visited the foundation and saw the portrait of edgy Portuguese poet Natalia Correia.
The ensuing collection captured Portugal’s exotic spirit and the poet’s sensual nature with silhouettes that are both seductive and effortlessly timeless.
On the catwalk, tailored pencil skirts and voluminous gowns garnered equal attention. Flowy dresses were topped by Max Mara’s signature teddy and cashmere coats as well as by soft knits, all accessorized with fishnet tights or romantic crystal-studded brooches.
On the more restrained side, iconic Max Mara house codes entered the show in casually timeless form, ranging from boxy, oversized outerwear to sculptural separates and crisp shirting.
In homage to the resort feel and Portugal’s laissez-faire attitude, makeup was kept barely there, with effortlessly styled hair.
Portugal’s traditional Fado music was another inspiration for the show. Singer Carminho, clad in a fitted black dress, strolled down the runway to dynamic tunes. Pleated waistbands also paid homage to the traditional Portuguese dress worn by Amalia Rodrigues, the so-called “queen of Fado.”
The collection also alluded to the Lenços de namorados do Minho (“handkerchiefs of love”), a Portuguese tradition in which young women embroider a handkerchief to gift to their beloved.
On stage, colourful folk-inspired prints and handkerchiefs hand-embroidered by Portuguese craftspeople were stitched onto T-shirts.