Behind the Legendary Stones of Van Cleef & Arpels

The story of the Legend of Diamonds—25 Mystery Set Jewels, the newest high jewelry collection from Van Cleef & Arpels—began in 2018 with a rough diamond called the Lesotho Legend.

The exceptional stone, the fifth largest rough diamond ever mined, inspired the brand to create a collection that told the stories of incredible diamonds and gemstones.

Working with a leading diamond cutter, Van Cleef & Arpels meticulously planned the cutting and faceting of each stone.

For nearly a year, gemologists studied the combinations, using innovative technology to perfect the technique. It took approximately four years and over 30,000 hours to develop the finished collection.

At the Van Cleef & Arpels Place Vendôme Workshops, expert artisans—or “Mains d’Or” (“Hands of Gold”)—worked tirelessly on each detail, carrying on the brand’s tradition of excellence.

Lightness and movement are a cornerstone of the collection, which brings together a brilliant color contrast in rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Curved lines prevail in pieces evoking draping ribbons and dimensional bows.

Each of the gems in the collection is combined with the Mystery Set, one of the jeweler’s most complex signature techniques, patented in 1933.

The process—known only to a few lapidaries and jewelry artisans—involves the reverse of traditional settings, with the stone fitted to the metal.

One of the boldest and most dramatic pieces, the Atours Mystérieux necklace shows off an impressive 79.35-carat oval-cut diamond, the collection’s heaviest gem.

Taking a cue from the couture world, the Double Ruban Mystérieux clip and Passementerie Mystérieuse ring evoke the supple texture of gently draping fabric. Two emerald-cut diamonds—a 5.23-carat topping the ring and a 3.08-carat at the clip—are contrasted with flowing ribbons of deep red rubies and pink sapphires.

The graphic Collerette Mysterieuse transformable necklace resembles an intricately sewn garment collar. Alternative rows of diamonds and rubies are edged with pink sapphires and square-cut diamonds, echoing dainty lace.

Two diamonds of 51 and 10 carats sparkle at the center; the largest can be detached to wear on a ring.