A Dialogue in Deep Cherry: Ammy Drammeh on the Resurrection of CHANEL Rouge Noir

Since it first streaked down the runway at the 1994/95 Autumn–Winter Ready-to-Wear show, CHANEL Rouge Noir has existed less as a color and more as a mood. Neither quite black nor simply cherry, the enigmatic deep cherry-red stain that adorned the nails of the nineties became an instant obsession, a stroke of genius first brought to life by CHANEL’s Creative Directors Dominique Moncourtois and Heidi Morawetz, alongside the legendary Karl Lagerfeld.

What began as a subversive flash on the fingertips has remained an enduring icon of the House, a timeless and enigmatic balance between shadow and light. Now, that storied DNA is being reimagined for a new era. In early 2026, CHANEL will unveil an exclusive makeup collection that translates the soul of the lacquer into a full-spectrum vision for eyes, lips, and skin.

Leading this metamorphosis is Ammy Drammeh, the visionary artist and key member of the CHANEL COMETES COLLECTIVE. We sat down with Drammeh to discuss the gravity of the shade, the alchemy of the new textures, and why the world remains under the spell of CHANEL’s most enduring hue.

Magnifissance: Rouge Noir has always felt like the ultimate fashion insider’s secret, that elusive, “lived-in” elegance. When you began architecting this collection, how did you evolve a single, iconic bottle of nail lacquer into an entire visual language?

Ammy Drammeh(AD): The idea began as a celebration of Rouge Noir, not just as a color, but as an attitude. When I started dissecting the tone, I discovered hidden worlds inside it: magentas, soft pinks, purples, and smoky greys. From there, the concept evolved into an exploration of contrasts—intensity and softness, mystery and light. I wanted to create products that allow each person to play with those dualities, to modulate their look depending on how they feel. It became less about a single color and more about a state of mind.

Magnifissance: There is a certain gravity to Rouge Noir, it’s the “vamp” shade that launched a thousand imitations. Beyond the fashion history, what is it about the specific chemistry of this pigment that makes it feel so significant to you personally?

AD: Rouge Noir has always fascinated me. It’s sensual but never loud, elegant but with a touch of rebellion. It’s one of those colors that tells a story without words, a story of emotion, confidence, and mystery. When you break down the shade, you realize it’s not just “red and black.” There are nuances of fuchsia, dusty pink, mauve, and purple—a full spectrum of feeling. My reinterpretation was about giving life to those hidden tones, bringing light into the shadows of Rouge Noir, and showing that its strength also comes from its softness.

Magnifissance: Makeup is often sold as a tool for perfection, but this collection feels more about character. When you were developing these textures, who was the woman you saw in your mind’s eye?

AD: I imagine a woman who’s confident in her contradictions. She’s graceful, but she has an edge. She enjoys expressing herself, sometimes through subtle gestures, sometimes through bold statements. She doesn’t wear makeup to hide; she wears it to reveal something of herself. I hope these pieces evoke a sense of freedom, the freedom to explore different facets of your personality. It’s about owning every side of who you are.

Magnifissance: The choice of Japanese actress Nana Komatsu for the campaign feels deliberate; there is a certain stillness to her. How does she bridge the gap between the history of the shade and the modern woman?

AD: Nana Komatsu embodies the duality that defines Rouge Noir. She has a quiet intensity—she can be delicate and strong, mysterious and radiant, all at once. There’s a natural elegance about her that doesn’t feel constructed, and I think that authenticity resonates deeply with this collection.

Magnifissance: You’ve spoken about “contrasts.” That was, of course, the fundamental tension in everything Gabrielle Chanel touched. Do you see Rouge Noir as the ultimate expression of her philosophy?

AD: It’s an homage to her spirited character and her belief in the power of contrasts: simplicity and sophistication, freedom and structure. Rouge Noir carries that same spirit. It’s timeless, but never static, inviting play, individuality, and emotion. Like Gabrielle herself, it’s about creating beauty that reflects who you are, not who you’re told to be.