Wearable Alchemy: Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Takes on Ancient Symbols

Inspired by the enigmatic world of alchemy, Brazilian jewelry designer Silvia Furmanovich explores its symbolism and philosophy in her latest collection, “Quintessence.”

“The name ‘Quintessence’ represents the fifth and highest element in ancient philosophy—the essence that permeates all of nature; the purest form of beauty and creativity,” says Furmanovich. “In this collection, we strive to capture that essence and transform it into wearable art.”

Like the alchemists of old who aimed to turn base metals into gold, Furmanovich travels the globe in search of talent and natural materials, transforming them into precious works of art.

Her latest Quintessence collection draws from alchemy’s rich symbolism, blending contrasting themes such as Earth and Sky, Moon and Sun, and the balance between femininity and masculinity. Furmanovich, renowned for merging ancient craftsmanship with contemporary techniques, has expanded her repertoire by introducing two innovative processes: lacquered marquetry and woven horse mane micro-sculptures.

Lacquered marquetry employs thin wood slivers coated with a glossy, vitrified finish, resulting in ultralight, intricately detailed pieces accented with gold and gemstones. This innovative approach adds a modern twist to her established techniques, such as Amazonian marquetry and Rajasthani miniature painting. Meanwhile, the woven horse mane micro-sculptures—crafted by female artisans from Colombia and Chile—feature strands of mane reinforced with agave fibers, providing both flexibility and structure.

The collection, deeply influenced by ancient cultures and alchemical philosophies, embodies Furmanovich’s pursuit of exploring the mysteries of the universe. Each piece, featuring celestial motifs, vibrant colors, or intricate natural symbols, becomes a gateway, inviting wearers to delve into the interconnectedness of all things and uncover the transformative power within themselves.